The Fashion Design Toolkit by Tracy Jennings

Author:Tracy Jennings
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781350101586
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2022-03-15T00:00:00+00:00

Blue: The circle’s radius measured from the center. Yellow: The inner circle circumference. This line is sewn to the garment. Orange: The outer circle circumference. This edge falls freely. Black: Cut line that gives access to the inner circle. Dotted Line: Indicates seam and added seam allowances.

Note the red line is the same measurement in each illustration. The size of the inner circle determines the amount of flare for a flounce.

Most seam allowances for patterns in this book are added after the pattern is complete. Working with full circles is one instance when the seam allowance on the cut line must be considered while making the pattern piece. The cut line passes through the donut shape to give access to the inner circle. If the inner circle is the exact measurement of a seam line, then there is no room for seaming the cut line. The seam allowance measurement must be added to the inner circle measurement at the time of making the circle.

Flounce Variations

There are many options to consider when making flounces, as shown in the figure here.

A.Since the flounce is made from a circular shape, it has grainlines in the lengthwise, crosswise, and bias directions. When cutting into the circle to access the inner curve, be sure to cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain. A cut on the straight grain will be easier to finish and more stable when sewn to another pattern piece.

B.If the measurement of the inner circle is not as long as the seam measurement, join two or more flounces. Keep the cut line placement the same on all circular pieces to ensure that the flounce undulates in consistent folds throughout.

C.Make creative variations by altering the shape of the outer circle.

D.Flounces can be set into vertical, horizontal, or diagonal seams, or they can be sewn into place on top of a base material. When set into horizontal seams, flounces fall downward and ripple at the outer edge. When set into vertical seams, flounces cascade in rolling folds. Note that the back (wrong) side of the fabric is often visible when inserting the piece vertically, so take care in selecting fabrics. Consider a piece-dyed fabric that is the same color on the face and back and avoid printed fabrics when the dye has not penetrated to the back side.

E.Flounces do not have to be created independently of the garment. Integrate a circular shape into an existing pattern to give an organic flow to the piece.

F.For longer length seam measurements, consider creating a pattern that spirals, mimicking the shell of a snail. As the concentric rings grow larger, the outer edge becomes less wavy. For example, this design tactic can create a ruffle that travels down a garment, narrower at the neckline and growing larger at the hem.

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